dd Advice from the CTFA for the consumer Understanding product labelling and ingredient categories
The CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Fragrance Association of South Africa, is the industry’s voice committed to maintaining high quality and safety of cosmetic products.
dddd In recent years product labelling on packaging has become law, providing consumers with an insight into what is being used in cosmetics, toiletries and fragrances and allowing them to make informed choices when purchasing products.
Cosmetic labelling is used as an advertising and communication tool by the company responsible for placing the product on the South African market. Here are some key pieces of information to look out for when browsing through cosmetic products in the retail aisles:
Product/Brand Name: This is the key identifier that a consumer knows the product by.
Product Descriptor: This is usually a statement below the product/brand name that describes the product function. For example shampoo, conditioner, deodorant etc.
Directions for use: It is of paramount importance to read these before using any cosmetic product as they guide you, the consumer, on how to use the product.
Warnings/Cautionary Statements: These are very critical because the manufacturer advises you accordingly to ensure your safety when using the product. You are advised to read and understand these before you use any cosmetic products.
Ingredient Listing: This is full disclosure by the manufacturer of what ingredients were used to manufacture the product. Consumers are advised to use this as a source of information to help them make an informed choice about a product at the point of sale. By virtue of the shape and size of some product packaging, labelling is precluded. The consumer is advised to check for the ingredients list and further information about the product on a tag attached to the product or a notice which is usually in immediate proximity to the point where the product is displayed for sale.
Name and Address of Manufacturer: The Local Physical Street address of the company placing the product on the South African market is required to appear on a cosmetic product. You may also find additional information such as a website and consumer hotline number as well.
Quantity Declaration: All cosmetic products are required to carry a declaration advising the consumer exactly how much product they will be purchasing e.g. 50 ml. Cosmetic products are manufactured from a selection of literally thousands of ingredients. With continued research and development coupled with advanced innovation, the cosmetic ingredient base will continue to expand.
On average a single cosmetic product contains about twenty three (23) ingredients. Each ingredient is expertly chosen to fulfil a function or several functions within the same product formulation. Often cosmetic ingredients are classified into groups because of their functions in formulations.
Common ingredient categories include the following:
Surfactants: Surfactants are contained mostly in body cleaning products such as shampoos, liquid hand soaps, foam baths etc. Surfactants are responsible for the cleaning action of these products. Emulsifiers: The bulk of cosmetic products currently on the South African market are emulsions. An emulsion is a mixture of two ordinarily immiscible substances for example oil and water. However with the right oil to water or water to oil ratios and the appropriate emulsifier, water and oil can be mixed. Common emulsions are body creams, body lotions, foundations etc.
Preservatives: This class of ingredients is pivotal in preserving the integrity of the product and ensuring that the product is free of microbes like bacteria and fungi. Bacteria thrive in environments that have water and nutrients which most cosmetic products are. Without any preservation, products become susceptible to microbial attack. The presence of microbes in cosmetic products is a consumer safety risk. It is therefore important that products are properly preserved Emollients & Humectants: These are essentially moisturisers which achieve the moisturisation effect on the skin via different mechanisms. Moisture retention is a key contributor to skin that looks firm and radiant.
Colourants: These are mostly used in colour cosmetics such as lip stick, eye shadows, foundations etc. Singularly or in combination, these give the chromatic effects of colour on skin.
Botanical Extracts: These are plant extracts that have been deemed to confer a cosmetic benefit to the skin. Benefits range from simple ones such as moisturisation to more advanced ones such as wrinkle size reduction and skin firming.
Fragrances: Fragrances help mask the smell of some of the cosmetic ingredients. Smell being a sensory attribute contributes to the overall sensorial feel when a consumer uses a product.
The above are some of the common cosmetic ingredient categories. Consumers are however advised that these categories are not the names that will appear on the ingredient listing of a cosmetic product, actual ingredient names will appear on the ingredient listing.
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